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Nissan Flexplate

Nissan Flexplate

1991 Nissan Maxima Flexplate Keeps on breaking!!!?

Recently I have Replaced the Engine (VG30E) with a younger engine of the same type (~25000mi from 150,000) after the old engine lost all compression in 3-4-5-6 cylinders.

After replacing the engine everything worked great, until the Flexplate broke. It was broken in a Circle about 1/4 inch from the center bolts. At this time I assumed that during shipment of the engine the flexplate had been bent or cracked. So I replaced with the flexplate off of the original engine. (I checked to ensure that it was indeed flat and had no serious signs of wear. After replacement I had some problems with the solenoid on the starter, so i replaced the starter. The car ran great, Until today.

My flexplate has broken once again. I havent gotten all the way in there yet, but i am assuming that the same problem has presented itself again. My question is this. Would an off balance torque converter cause this problem? Or is the problem likely to reside in the Crankshaft?

The problem could be the Crankshaft flange is not "square" to the block itself. Once you get the transmission out, remove the flex plate and put a dial indicator on the Crank flange (both the outer edge and most importantly, the face of the flange) and check for run-out. You should NOT have more than .002" run-out on the face of the flange, and no more than about .004" on the outer edge. However, I think you will find that your transmission bell-housing is not aligning with the engine block properly. Both the transmission and engine contact points MUST be free of any rust or corrosion, and BOTH alignment dowels MUST be in place and free to slide easily into the transmission housing (IE, CLEAN). Also, make sure you don't have an extra alignment dowel, as this would keep the transmission from mating properly to the engine block. Another possibility is the flex plates are "weak" to begin with, you may want to check with your local dealer and see if the flex plate has been superseded to a newer, better flex plate (probably not, but I'm just trying to cover all the bases!)
I highly doubt the torque converter has anything to do with your problem, because I'm assuming it's the same torque converter you had originally with no problems, and broken flex plates are generally the result of a misalignment of the engine block and transmission case, or a poorly designed flex plate. HTH, Good Luck!!





Nissan Flexplate
1991 Nissan Maxima Flexplate Keeps on breaking!!!?

Recently I have Replaced the Engine (VG30E) with a younger engine of the same type (~25000mi from 150,000) after the old engine lost all compression in 3-4-5-6 cylinders.

After replacing the engine everything worked great, until the Flexplate broke. It was broken in a Circle about 1/4 inch from the center bolts. At this time I assumed that during shipment of the engine the flexplate had been bent or cracked. So I replaced with the flexplate off of the original engine. (I checked to ensure that it was indeed flat and had no serious signs of wear. After replacement I had some problems with the solenoid on the starter, so i replaced the starter. The car ran great, Until today.

My flexplate has broken once again. I havent gotten all the way in there yet, but i am assuming that the same problem has presented itself again. My question is this. Would an off balance torque converter cause this problem? Or is the problem likely to reside in the Crankshaft?

The problem could be the Crankshaft flange is not "square" to the block itself. Once you get the transmission out, remove the flex plate and put a dial indicator on the Crank flange (both the outer edge and most importantly, the face of the flange) and check for run-out. You should NOT have more than .002" run-out on the face of the flange, and no more than about .004" on the outer edge. However, I think you will find that your transmission bell-housing is not aligning with the engine block properly. Both the transmission and engine contact points MUST be free of any rust or corrosion, and BOTH alignment dowels MUST be in place and free to slide easily into the transmission housing (IE, CLEAN). Also, make sure you don't have an extra alignment dowel, as this would keep the transmission from mating properly to the engine block. Another possibility is the flex plates are "weak" to begin with, you may want to check with your local dealer and see if the flex plate has been superseded to a newer, better flex plate (probably not, but I'm just trying to cover all the bases!)
I highly doubt the torque converter has anything to do with your problem, because I'm assuming it's the same torque converter you had originally with no problems, and broken flex plates are generally the result of a misalignment of the engine block and transmission case, or a poorly designed flex plate. HTH, Good Luck!!




Nissan Flexplate
1991 Nissan Maxima Flexplate Keeps on breaking!!!?

Recently I have Replaced the Engine (VG30E) with a younger engine of the same type (~25000mi from 150,000) after the old engine lost all compression in 3-4-5-6 cylinders.

After replacing the engine everything worked great, until the Flexplate broke. It was broken in a Circle about 1/4 inch from the center bolts. At this time I assumed that during shipment of the engine the flexplate had been bent or cracked. So I replaced with the flexplate off of the original engine. (I checked to ensure that it was indeed flat and had no serious signs of wear. After replacement I had some problems with the solenoid on the starter, so i replaced the starter. The car ran great, Until today.

My flexplate has broken once again. I havent gotten all the way in there yet, but i am assuming that the same problem has presented itself again. My question is this. Would an off balance torque converter cause this problem? Or is the problem likely to reside in the Crankshaft?

The problem could be the Crankshaft flange is not "square" to the block itself. Once you get the transmission out, remove the flex plate and put a dial indicator on the Crank flange (both the outer edge and most importantly, the face of the flange) and check for run-out. You should NOT have more than .002" run-out on the face of the flange, and no more than about .004" on the outer edge. However, I think you will find that your transmission bell-housing is not aligning with the engine block properly. Both the transmission and engine contact points MUST be free of any rust or corrosion, and BOTH alignment dowels MUST be in place and free to slide easily into the transmission housing (IE, CLEAN). Also, make sure you don't have an extra alignment dowel, as this would keep the transmission from mating properly to the engine block. Another possibility is the flex plates are "weak" to begin with, you may want to check with your local dealer and see if the flex plate has been superseded to a newer, better flex plate (probably not, but I'm just trying to cover all the bases!)
I highly doubt the torque converter has anything to do with your problem, because I'm assuming it's the same torque converter you had originally with no problems, and broken flex plates are generally the result of a misalignment of the engine block and transmission case, or a poorly designed flex plate. HTH, Good Luck!!




Nissan Flexplate
1991 Nissan Maxima Flexplate Keeps on breaking!!!?

Recently I have Replaced the Engine (VG30E) with a younger engine of the same type (~25000mi from 150,000) after the old engine lost all compression in 3-4-5-6 cylinders.

After replacing the engine everything worked great, until the Flexplate broke. It was broken in a Circle about 1/4 inch from the center bolts. At this time I assumed that during shipment of the engine the flexplate had been bent or cracked. So I replaced with the flexplate off of the original engine. (I checked to ensure that it was indeed flat and had no serious signs of wear. After replacement I had some problems with the solenoid on the starter, so i replaced the starter. The car ran great, Until today.

My flexplate has broken once again. I havent gotten all the way in there yet, but i am assuming that the same problem has presented itself again. My question is this. Would an off balance torque converter cause this problem? Or is the problem likely to reside in the Crankshaft?

The problem could be the Crankshaft flange is not "square" to the block itself. Once you get the transmission out, remove the flex plate and put a dial indicator on the Crank flange (both the outer edge and most importantly, the face of the flange) and check for run-out. You should NOT have more than .002" run-out on the face of the flange, and no more than about .004" on the outer edge. However, I think you will find that your transmission bell-housing is not aligning with the engine block properly. Both the transmission and engine contact points MUST be free of any rust or corrosion, and BOTH alignment dowels MUST be in place and free to slide easily into the transmission housing (IE, CLEAN). Also, make sure you don't have an extra alignment dowel, as this would keep the transmission from mating properly to the engine block. Another possibility is the flex plates are "weak" to begin with, you may want to check with your local dealer and see if the flex plate has been superseded to a newer, better flex plate (probably not, but I'm just trying to cover all the bases!)
I highly doubt the torque converter has anything to do with your problem, because I'm assuming it's the same torque converter you had originally with no problems, and broken flex plates are generally the result of a misalignment of the engine block and transmission case, or a poorly designed flex plate. HTH, Good Luck!!



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